Maison Orris · historical perfumery materials for creators, fragrance houses and collectors
[email protected]Catalogue lexicon · 58 records
Each abbreviation opens a small door into the working language of historical perfumery—extraction, concentration, treatment and grade. Follow the term into the materials where it appears.
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Absolute
Recommended interpretation
Absolute
Ethanol-soluble aromatic extract commonly obtained from a concrete, resinoid, pomade, or similar extract.
Typical context
Finished natural extract form; starting material and concentration still matter.
Caution
Do not assume purity or present condition from ABS alone.
Catalogue matches
Essence
Recommended interpretation
Essence
Historical French shorthand commonly used for an essential oil or citrus expression.
Typical context
Volatile aromatic material; exact production method depends on the full designation.
Caution
Do not infer steam distillation versus expression from ESS alone.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Huile essentielle / Essential Oil
Volatile oil obtained by distillation or, for suitable citrus materials, mechanical expression.
Typical context
Primary natural volatile-oil form.
Caution
Plant part, origin, and method remain product-specific.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Concrète / Concrete
Waxy solvent extract, typically from fresh plant material.
Typical context
Intermediate or sellable aromatic extract containing waxes and odorous material.
Caution
CTE is historical shorthand rather than a universal standard abbreviation.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Résinoïde / Resinoid
Solvent extract usually made from dry plant material, gum, balsam, or resin.
Typical context
Resinous extract form; may later be alcohol-washed into an absolute.
Caution
Preserve the code where the historic identity is proprietary.
Catalogue matches
Extract
Recommended interpretation
Extract
Generic extract designation.
Typical context
Signals extraction but not the solvent, concentration, or starting form.
Caution
Needs the surrounding designation for comparison.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Distillation moléculaire / Molecular Distillation
High-vacuum short-path fractionation used to isolate selected portions while limiting heat exposure.
Typical context
Can concentrate, decolourize, deodorize, or separate fractions depending on setup.
Caution
Describes processing, not purity or current condition.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Molecular-distillation series or variant
Likely internal stage, grade, or equipment-series suffix attached to molecular distillation.
Typical context
Differentiates historical process variants.
Caution
Do not state that the number equals confirmed passes without a producer process sheet.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Short-Path Distillation
High-vacuum distillation with a very short vapour path and short residence time.
Typical context
Gentle separation of heat-sensitive or high-boiling components.
Caution
Exact Calchauvet equipment and cut boundaries are unknown.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Traitement thermique / Heat Treatment
Probably indicates a heat-treatment step.
Typical context
May alter colour, volatility, odour, or processability.
Caution
Temperature, duration, atmosphere, and purpose are undocumented.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Rectified
Redistilled or fractionated to alter or remove selected components.
Typical context
Refines an oil or extract and changes its composition.
Caution
Does not automatically mean colourless or compliant.
Recommended interpretation
Purified
EP probably means épuré in designations such as DM EP.
Typical context
Signals a purification step.
Caution
Method and degree of purification are unknown.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Decolourized
Treated to reduce colour.
Typical context
May improve colour profile without proving chemical purity.
Caution
Method may be adsorption, distillation, or another process.
Recommended interpretation
Incolore / Colourless
Historical colour description or grade.
Typical context
Indicates appearance, not composition.
Caution
Not proof of purity.
Low Atranol? or lavage Alcool?
Recommended interpretation
Probably lavage alcool / alcohol-washed
Likely alcohol washing or an internal alcohol-wash product series; inventory-wide use disproves a universal Low Atranol expansion.
Typical context
Alcohol washing can separate ethanol-soluble aromatic material from waxes or heavier insolubles.
Caution
Never expand inventory-wide as Low Atranol. Preserve LA until producer documentation is found.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Probably entraînement à la vapeur
Likely steam entrainment or steam distillation.
Typical context
Steam carries volatile aromatic components away from the feed.
Caution
Process is credible; Calchauvet abbreviation is not independently verified.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Reprocessed or passed again
Indicates material was passed through a process again, recovered, or redissolved.
Typical context
A reprocessing qualifier; exact operation is product-specific.
Caution
State the exact operation only when documented.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Hexane
Normally identifies an extraction or re-extraction solvent.
Typical context
Non-polar solvent used for aromatic solvent extraction.
Caution
The full ENT VAP REP HEX process sequence remains unresolved.
Catalogue matches
?
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved process sequence
Likely combines steam entrainment, reprocessing, and hexane recovery or re-extraction.
Typical context
Multi-stage historical processing clue.
Caution
Do not present a precise sequence without Calchauvet production records.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Short-Path Distillation but in french
High-vacuum distillation with a very short vapour path and short residence time.
Typical context
Gentle separation of heat-sensitive or high-boiling components.
Caution
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved historical designation
No defensible universal expansion was found across the inventory.
Typical context
May be an internal product, process, or grade code.
Caution
Do not expand as Pierre Chauvet, purified/concentrated, or another phrase without evidence.
Colorized: Naturalized
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved historical designation
The embedded legend's Colorized: Naturalized wording is not technically established.
Typical context
Internal grade or processing clue.
Caution
Preserve verbatim.
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved historical designation
The embedded naturalized/distilled note is unsupported; other readings are possible.
Typical context
Internal grade or processing clue.
Caution
Preserve verbatim.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Probably cold-pressed / cold-expressed
Likely identifies mechanically expressed citrus oil.
Typical context
Expression rather than steam distillation.
Caution
Exact CPE expansion remains undocumented.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Folded / concentrated oil
Oil concentrated by removing part of a more volatile fraction.
Typical context
Changes composition and odour strength.
Caution
Does not mean five-times purity of every constituent.
Recommended interpretation
Probably sans terpènes / terpeneless
Indicates a terpene-reduced oil or fraction.
Typical context
Improves solubility/stability or changes odour profile depending on material.
Caution
Exact residual terpene level is unknown.
Recommended interpretation
Sesquiterpene-reduced
A fraction from which sesquiterpenes have been reduced or removed.
Typical context
Lighter, more volatile composition than the complete oil.
Caution
Not necessarily fully terpeneless.
Recommended interpretation
Terpene-rich fraction
A separated terpene-rich cut obtained during concentration or fractionation.
Typical context
Industrial fraction rather than complete essential oil.
Caution
Not commercially equivalent to the complete oil.
Recommended interpretation
Dipropylene Glycol
Low-odour fragrance carrier or diluent.
Typical context
Reduces concentration and improves handling or solubility.
Caution
A DPG dilution must not be treated as neat material.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
DPG confirmed; MKS unresolved
Indicates a DPG-carried product with an unresolved MKS code.
Typical context
Diluted/carried historical product.
Caution
Preserve full code and request label or SDS evidence.
Recommended interpretation
Probably Triethanolamine
Likely carrier in Skatole 50% in TEA.
Typical context
Carrier/solvent and concentration qualifier.
Caution
TEA can denote other chemicals; confirm exact label or SDS before commercial use.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Likely Miglyol carrier family
Branded medium-chain triglyceride carrier family.
Typical context
Diluent/carrier for viscous or concentrated materials.
Caution
Exact grade is not shown; do not assume Miglyol 812.
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved 80-degree/strength process notation
Probably material remaining from or processed with alcohol stated at 80 degrees/strength.
Typical context
Historical process/concentration clue.
Caution
Do not assume 80°C, 80% active, or 80% v/v without a process record.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Alimentaire
Historical food/application grade wording.
Typical context
Application-grade clue.
Caution
Does not prove present food suitability or compliance.
Recommended interpretation
Historical IFRA-related grade wording
Indicates how a historical grade was described relative to restrictions current at that time.
Typical context
Regulatory-era context only.
Caution
Not a current certificate or compliance statement.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Historical premium or selected grade
Supplier grade wording for a selected or special version.
Typical context
Commercial grade clue.
Caution
Not standardized purity or proof of superior current condition.
Recommended interpretation
Possible proprietary grade or series
May identify an internal high-grade or series code.
Typical context
Historical product differentiation.
Caution
Do not expand to maximum grade.
Recommended interpretation
Purchased material
French Achat means purchased; the letter A alone is not universal proof.
Typical context
Acquisition context.
Caution
Do not infer manufacturer from the seller or purchaser.
Recommended interpretation
Imported material
Import is explicit where written; Batch I alone may be internal shorthand.
Typical context
Acquisition/source context.
Caution
Does not identify importer, origin, or producer by itself.
Recommended interpretation
Produced / manufactured
Indicates a production context in the historical record.
Typical context
Source/provenance context.
Caution
Does not prove current producer identity or full vertical manufacture.
Recommended interpretation
Second or revised variant
Often indicates a second/revised version of a reference or formula.
Typical context
Historical version qualifier.
Caution
Do not treat automatically as a duplicate physical container.
Recommended interpretation
Probably alpha-dextro / dextrorotatory
Used in the alpha-pinene designation.
Typical context
Optical-isomer clue.
Caution
Do not assert measured rotation without documentation.
Catalogue matches
Recommended interpretation
Floral pomade
Perfumed fat produced by enfleurage or maceration.
Typical context
Historical carrier/intermediate for delicate flowers.
Caution
Not equivalent to a neat absolute.
Recommended interpretation
Alcoholic extraction of scented pomade
Likely an extract obtained toward exhaustive recovery from a floral pomade.
Typical context
Historical multi-step floral extraction.
Caution
Exact cycle count and residual fat are unknown.
Recommended interpretation
Unresolved historical tuberose designation
No credible source established a precise meaning for this inventory term.
Typical context
Potential production or recovery qualifier.
Caution
Do not equate automatically with enfleurage, flower recharging, pressing, or exhaustion.
Recommended interpretation
Wax-supported or wax-phase material
Material carried on, retained with, or processed from a wax phase.
Typical context
Supported/diluted form or intermediate.
Caution
Do not assume neat concentration.
Recommended interpretation
Recreated blend
Blend prepared to reproduce a natural material or historical composition.
Typical context
Formulation rather than the named natural extract.
Caution
Not equivalent to the named natural material.
Recommended interpretation
Reduced concentration
Material intentionally diluted with a carrier or solvent.
Typical context
Handling and concentration qualifier.
Caution
Require percentage and carrier before comparison or pricing.
Recommended interpretation
Minimally refined grade
Unfinished or lightly processed material.
Typical context
Industrial/intermediate grade.
Caution
Not equivalent to a finished purified oil or extract.
Recommended interpretation
Remaining material
Material remaining after extraction, distillation, washing, or recovery.
Typical context
Recovery/intermediate fraction.
Caution
Processing history is needed before comparison.
Recommended interpretation
Early volatile cut
Early, more volatile portion of a distillation or fractionation.
Typical context
Lighter fraction.
Caution
Not equivalent to the complete oil.
Recommended interpretation
Central selected cut
Central fraction selected during distillation or fractionation.
Typical context
Core odour fraction.
Caution
Heart does not prove superior quality without process/yield data.
Recommended interpretation
Central or later body cut
Producer-specific description for a central/body fraction.
Typical context
Internal cut description.
Caution
Cut boundaries are producer-specific.
Recommended interpretation
Late heavy or residual cut
Late, higher-boiling, or residual fraction after separation.
Typical context
Recovery or industrial fraction.
Caution
May not be a finished grade.
Recommended interpretation
Solvent-extracted volatile and non-volatile material
Extract containing both volatile oil and resinous/non-volatile components.
Typical context
Different form from essential oil.
Caution
Not interchangeable with essential oil.
Recommended interpretation
Proprietary fragrance blend
House or trade-name mixture used as a perfumery ingredient.
Typical context
Composite formula rather than one molecule.
Caution
Do not treat as a single chemical unless composition is established.
Recommended interpretation
Defined chemical or commercial molecule
Single compound or historically specified commercial chemical used in fragrance formulation.
Typical context
Synthetic or isolated perfumery ingredient.
Caution
Historical trade names may conceal mixtures or obsolete specifications.
Recommended interpretation
ATS; BA1; CAL; CH; CQ257; CTX; GN; GU; HB; HR; JHA; KV; MKS; MS; NA; NB; OM; PEPE 10-16; R3705; R515; RS; SB; SME; SMOS; STY; TER; TL
Internal, proprietary, client, grade, or reference codes not securely expanded from public sources.
Typical context
Identity and search clues only.
Caution
Retain verbatim and seek original labels, invoices, formula cards, technical sheets, or producer catalogues.
