Olfactive family
Citrus
For the perfumer’s palette
Compose the unexpected with a rare vintage palette.
For perfumers in search of new directions, Maison Orris opens a world of expressive materials—from luminous florals and nuanced naturals to deep resins, mosses and historic bases—inviting unexpected accords and unmistakable signatures.
Prepare your smelling session
- 1Use a correctly prepared evaluation blotter and follow the material’s safe-use guidance.
- 2Smell with short, gentle sniffs. Start a little away from the blotter, then move closer.
- 3Write the first impression now. Revisit the same blotter after 5 minutes, 30 minutes and later.
There is no score. Smell is partly subjective; the aim is to observe clearly and learn the vocabulary used by perfumers.
Training structure informed by professional ingredient compendia and perfumery-school practice: family and facets, fresh versus later blotter readings, diffusion, tenacity and formula role are observed separately.
IFF Ingredients CompendiumIFRA Fragrance Ingredient GlossaryISIPCA olfactive analysis
Maison Orris material training
Train your nose on individual materials.
Choose a material and move from recognition to formula thinking. Every lesson uses that material’s olfactive profile, extraction, botanical identity, practical role and collection context—not an internal reference number.
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Beginner · Bergamot Crude Bottom Fraction
Which olfactive family best fits Bergamot Crude Bottom Fraction?
Material study card
Bergamot Crude Bottom Fraction
Olfactive profile
dark bergamot peel · bitter green rind · tea · wax · soft floral · terpenic depth
Material / extraction class
Fraction / Residue / Terpenes
Botanical or natural identity
Citrus × bergamia Risso & Poit.
Likely position
top / opening
Possible work in a formula
shadowed colognes · tea accords · chypre openings · citrus-to-heart bridges
How the material is made or treated
Fractionation isolates a particular register of a larger material. Heads and terpene cuts tend toward lift; hearts focus the central identity; body and bottom cuts gather weight, shadow and less-volatile depth. The crude grade keeps a broad, unpolished spectrum—often the most textural and revealing view of the source. A bottom cut explores the darker, heavier and less-volatile end of the material.
What to follow on the blotter
In perfumery vocabulary, Bergamot Crude Bottom Fraction is associated with dark bergamot peel, bitter green rind, tea, wax, soft floral and terpenic depth. Its creative role is an agile top-note instrument with vivid lift, giving structure and character to complex accords.
Vintage character
Preserved within the Maison Orris collection assembled by 2006, this material opens a door to an earlier era of perfumery. An uncommon voice from legendary perfumery heritage, made for mature, daring compositions—a scent from the past, ready to inspire something entirely new.
Collection or house context
Calchauvet
Sources for this material lesson
Catalogue family
12 materials in this route
Flagship
Citrus
Ref. MO-012
Age: 20+ years
Bergamot Crude Bottom Fraction
Bergamotte Fonds Bruts
Citrus × bergamia Risso & Poit.
Recorded historical attribution
Calchauvet
Bergamot Crude Bottom Fraction brings dark bergamot peel, bitter green rind and tea into an agile top-note instrument with vivid lift.
Available
Price for selected size€16.50
Flagship
Rose
Ref. MO-027
Age: 25 years
Bulgarian Rose Absolute
Rose Bulgare Absolu
Rosa × damascena Mill.
Recorded historical attribution
Calchauvet
Bulgarian Rose Absolute Calchauvet brings velvety red petal, honey and warm spice into a richly expressive heart-note material.
Available
Price for selected size€56
Flagship
Floral
Ref. MO-077
Age: 20+ years
Egyptian Jasmine Absolute
Jasmin ABS Égypte
Jasminum grandiflorum L.
Recorded historical attribution
Calchauvet
Egyptian Jasmine Absolute brings lush white flower, apricot-like fruit and green petal into a richly expressive heart-note material.
Available
Price for selected size€32
Flagship
Woods / Roots / Resins / Balsams
Ref. MO-131
Age: 20+ years
Labdanum Resinoid
Labdanum RDE
Cistus ladanifer
Recorded historical attribution
Calchauvet
Labdanum Resinoid brings honeyed amber, balsamic and leathery into a deep base-note material with architectural presence.
Available
Price for selected size€12
Flagship
Moss / Lichen
Ref. MO-177
Age: 23 years
Oakmoss Absolute
Mousse chêne ABS
Evernia prunastri
Recorded historical attribution
Calchauvet
Oakmoss Absolute brings earthy, woody and mossy into a deep base-note material with architectural presence.
Available
Price for selected size€31
Flagship
Orris / Iris
Ref. MO-190
Age: 26–29 years
Orris Concrete 15% Irone
Iris beurre CTE 15 %
Iris spp.
Recorded historical attribution
Calchauvet
Orris Concrete 15% Irone brings violet, buttery and powdery into a deep base-note material with architectural presence.
Available
Price for selected size€145
Flagship
Floral
Ref. MO-249
Age: 20+ years
Tuberose Absolute (Pommade Exhaustion Extract)
Tubéreuse ABS Pommade
Polianthes tuberosa L. (syn. Agave amica)
Recorded historical attribution
Calchauvet
Tuberose Absolute (Pommade Exhaustion Extract) brings buttery white petals, green creaminess and orange-blossom glow into a deep base-note material with architectural presence.
Available
Price for selected size€57
Flagship
Woods / Roots / Resins / Balsams
Ref. MO-255
Age: 20+ years
Vetyver Essence N/D
Vétiver ESS N/D
Recorded historical attribution
BOURJOIS
Vetyver Essence N/D (BOURJOIS) brings dry root, earthy and smoky into a deep base-note material with architectural presence.
Available
Price for selected size€13
Aroma Chemicals / Bases
Ref. MO-002
Age: 20+ years
Acetate Rhodinyl Selection
Acetate Rhodinyle Selection
Recorded historical attribution
Calchauvet
Acetate Rhodinyl Selection brings rosy, fresh floral and geranium-like into an agile top-note instrument with vivid lift.
Available
Price for selected size€8.50
Aroma Chemicals / Bases
Ref. MO-003
Age: 20+ years
Acetyl Eugenol
Eugénol acétylé
Recorded historical attribution
Prodasynth
Acetyl Eugenol brings mild clove, carnation-spicy and sweet into a deep base-note material with architectural presence.
Available
Price for selected size€8.50
Moss / Lichen
Ref. MO-004
Age: 26 years
Adriatic Oakmoss Absolute, Brown Grade
Mousse chêne ABS Adriatique ABS Brune
Evernia prunastri
Recorded historical attribution
Calchauvet
Adriatic Oakmoss Absolute, Brown Grade brings earthy, woody and mossy into a deep base-note material with architectural presence.
Available
Price for selected size€32